A Guide to Backpacking Hut to Hut in the White Mountains
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If you're looking for a unique hiking experience, look no further than backpacking hut to hut in the White Mountains National Forest in New Hampshire. While hiking here you will encounter steep and rugged mountains. You will almost think you're out west somewhere in the Rockies. But at the same time, you will be able to get the comfort of a cabin-like hut to stay at. The White Mountains are not only known for their world-class views, but also for their dangerous weather. They recorded the highest wind gusts ever in the world on top of the famous Mount Washington at 231 mph. However, don't let that scare you. If you prepare well and watch the forecast ahead of time to pick a time period of good weather, then you will be able to experience a magical place with epic landscapes. Of all the hikes to do, backpacking hut to hut in the White Mountains from the Franconia Range all the way through the Presidential Range offers the most breathtaking scenery.
Trail Facts
Length: 45.6 Miles
Duration: 3-7 Days
Elevation Gain: 17,355 Feet
Peak Elevation: 6,288 Feet
Best Time: Summer and Fall (fewer bugs, like the black fly)
Difficulty Level: Strenuous (significant elevation change and rugged terrain)
Bear Canisters: Not Required
Permits: Not Required
Dogs: Allowed but not recommend
Highlights
Stay at the iconic Lake of the Clouds Hut
Climb Mount Washington - the highest peak of the White Mountains at 6,288 feet
Long ridge-lines above tree-line
Incredible photo ops
Starry-night skies
Unique rugged terrain
Maps & Information
National Geographic White Mountain National Forest Map Bundle Pack: For finding your way, I recommend the always dependable National Geographic waterproof map. It will provide you with elevation profiles, mileage, shelter locations, and water sources.
Mountain Huts
The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) is a non-profit organization that runs and maintains the mountain huts. At these huts, you can expect to meet a lot of different people from all over the world. Which is quite a nice experience in itself. Sleeping arrangements are hostel-like bunk rooms. If you're a light sleeper, make sure to bring earplugs. The food is probably what I enjoy the most. They feed you large portions of good-tasting food to satisfy that hiking hunger. Below you can see what the mountain huts look like.
Price: $178 pp (includes dinner and breakfast)
Parking / Shuttles / Accommodations
Parking at most trailheads is free for backpackers in the White Mountains National Forest.
Since this trail is linear, not a loop, you will most likely need a shuttle service. There are several companies to choose from, but the most convenient and affordable one would be the AMC shuttle service.
Price: $23
As seen in the map below, there are shuttle stops positioned throughout the White Mountains for your convenience.
Check out the shuttle schedule for pick-up/drop-off times and additional information.
Now you have two choices to make:
Option 1: You can park at a trailhead and hike. Then, when you're finished, have the shuttle pick you up and return you to your car where you started.
Option 2: Park your car at the trailhead where you will finish and then take the shuttle to your starting point. Then your car will be waiting for you at the finish.
If you're traveling far and need a place to stay before or after your hike there are a number of options. The AMC has two lodges available. The Highland Center Lodge and the Joe Dodge Lodge. Photos below.
Highland Center - front
Joe Dodge Lodge - front
Highland center - room
Joe dodge lodge - room
Prices: $98-$168 (large dinner and breakfast included)
Queen beds or bunks available
Choose between private or shared rooms
Terrain
Hiking in the White Mountains can be difficult. Instead of having switchbacks like many other trails, these trails just seem to go straight up the mountainside. On top of that, rocks and boulders are found all over the trail. Sometimes you're hopping from one boulder to another for the next mile or two. Trekking poles are a must to keep your balance and keep you safe. I recommend the Leki Makalu Lite Cork Trekking Poles. Because of this type of terrain don't expect to be putting in 15 miles or more per day, but closer to 10 miles. Make sure before you attempt a hike like this that you are in good shape and health.
Dangers
As mentioned at the beginning of this guide, this area is known for its dangerous weather. It could have high winds, strong thunderstorms, and/or cold temperatures, even in the middle of summer. It's best to always watch the weather forecasts like a hawk before you go. And I don't mean checking weather.com, but the actual summit forecasts.
There is a high population of bears and some moose in this national forest, but since you will be mostly on the exposed ridgelines there is really no danger with these animals.
Bugs
This particular area is known for its black flies. They are not really bad every year, but some years they can be a big annoyance. The period of time to be careful of them is in the spring and early summer. That's when they are most active. Usually, by mid to late July they start to become less of an issue. Also, with this area's many water sources you will face some mosquitoes. To guard against these insects I recommend using Picaridin Spray for any exposed skin. You can also treat your clothing with Permethrin Spray.
Water Sources
In the lower elevations, water is readily available throughout the many ponds and streams. But when you are higher up water becomes more scarce. All the mountain huts fill this need and provide water for hikers. So on this hike, you will never need to carry more than two liters of water at a time. Make sure if you do get your water from the streams or ponds to always filter it so you don't get sick. A good filter to use that’s not expensive and always dependable is the Sawyer Squeeze.
Backpacking the White Mountains (Hut to Hut) Video
Possible Itinerary
Note: For this hike, you will be following the Appalachian Trail most of the way. Sometimes the trail will be referred to by other names. Make sure to follow your map closely.
7 Night, 50.1 Mile Option (Hiking from Franconia Ridge to the Presidential Range)
Day 1:
Start at Old Bridle Path Trailhead in the Franconia Notch area.
Hike uphill for 2.9 miles
Stay at the Greenleaf Hut.
Day 2:
Hike 7.7 miles enjoying spectacular views from Mount Lafayette and Mount Garfield.
Stay at the Galehead Hut
Day 3:
Hike for 7 miles enjoying views from Twin Mountain and many nice wooded sections
Stay at the Zealand Falls Hut
Day 4:
Hike for 14.2 miles in some challenging terrain and begin to enter into the Presidential Range.
Stay at the Mizpah Spring Hut
You will have summited 2 mountains this day. (Webster & Jackson)
Day 5:
Hike 5.1 miles on the scenic Presidential Ridgeline
Stay at the iconic Lake of the Clouds Hut.
You will have the choice to summit 4 peaks in this section of the trail. (Pierce, Eisenhower, Franklin, and Monroe)
Day 6:
Hike 9 miles into the very rugged, but spectacular, northern section of the Presidential Range.
Stay at the Madison Spring Hut.
Throughout the day you can choose to summit 5 peaks. (Washington, Clay, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison)
Day 7:
Take the easy downhill Valley Way Trail 4.2 miles from Madison Spring Hut to the Valley Way/Appalachia trailhead.
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