Roan Highlands Backpacking Guide

backpacking the roan highlands

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The Roan Highlands is one of the most scenic sections of the Appalachian Trail. It's located in the remote Pisgah and Cherokee National Forests, on the border between Tennessee and North Carolina. The trip's highlight is the long stretches of mountaintop grassy balds providing 360-degree views of nothing but mountains as far as the eye can see.

This section of the AT is a demanding hike with constant elevation changes, but if you are willing to meet the challenge, you will be rewarded with an adventure of a lifetime.

Trail Facts

  • Length: 47.4 Miles

  • Trail Blazes: White

  • Duration: 4-5 Days

  • Elevation Gain: 12941 Feet

  • Peak Elevation: 6286 Feet

  • Best time: Early to Mid June (rhododendrons blooming)

  • Difficulty Level: Strenuous (significant elevation change)

  • Bear canisters: Not Required

  • Permits: Not Required

  • Dogs: Allowed

Highlights

  • Spectacular Mountain Ranges

  • Unique Grassy Mountain Balds

  • Appalachian Trail Community

  • Highest AT shelter-The Roan High Knob Shelter at 6285'

roan highlands grassy bald

Maps

The 1502 National Geographic (Appalachian Trail, Davenport Gap to Damascus) Map: For finding your way, I recommend the always dependable National Geographic waterproof map. It will provide you with elevation profiles, mileage, shelter locations, and water sources. 

The Avenza App: This is a great hiking app for navigating this trail. It utilizes your mobile phone's GPS to locate and track your position on a topographical map. It provides the same trail information as mentioned above. You can purchase the digital 1502 Appalachian Trail (Davenport to Damascus) Map through the app.

Parking & Shuttles

At either end of the route, there are hostels that provide both parking and shuttle services. Since this trail is linear, not a loop, these hostels are great resources to utilize. They allow you to get dropped off at one end of the trail while your car stays at the other end, and then you can just walk back to your vehicle.

If you are going northbound, as I did when hiking this route, you can park and get a shuttle at Mountain Harbour Hostel. If you are going southbound, you can park and get a shuttle at Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky Hostel. The shuttles are not the cheapest but compared to not having them at all; they are certainly a logistic necessity.

I recommend you visit one of the websites linked above and make a reservation for a shuttle about a week before your trip. See the interactive map below for the exact hostel and trailhead locations.

Roan Highland Mountains

Terrain

The Roan Highland section of the Appalachian Trail has very few flat areas. Instead, the terrain is made up of many steep climbs and descents, which will test your fitness level. Over the course of the hike, you'll climb over 12,941 feet of cumulative elevation gain.

The most challenging terrain you'll encounter on the trail is hiking to the top of Roan Mountain. You start at Hughes Gap and climb over 2,000 feet to reach the tree-covered summit at 6,285 feet. Thankfully about a dozen switchbacks help keep the ascent from being too vertical.

Dangers

One of the biggest dangers of this hike is the weather, because of the many exposed peaks of grassy balds. In the summer months, thunderstorms can move in quickly and present a real danger for hikers. The last thing you want is to be caught up on the ridge in a thunderstorm with nowhere to go for shelter.

To prevent this from happening, it's essential to always look at the area's forecast multiple times before your trip. A good resource for weather updates can be found at mountain-forecast.com. This site provides forecasts for high and low elevations.

roan highland section of the Appalachian Trail

Bugs

Overall, bugs in this area are not a huge concern. Certainly, some years can be worse than others. I hiked this area in the spring when bugs are usually at their worst, and I personally didn't have any issues. It is always good practice to bring some bug repellent with you because you never know. I recommend using Picaridin spray for any exposed skin and treating your clothing with Permethrin spray.  

Water Sources

Throughout the Roan Highlands area, you'll find there's an adequate amount of water sources in the form of springs and creeks to replenish your water bottles at. I have many of the water sources marked on the interactive map below so you can come up with a water carry plan for your hike.

I recommend filling up all your bottles before you start your climb from Hughes Gap to the summit of Roan Mountain. Because of the elevation gain, you'll consume a ton of water in this section. Make sure also to filter your water because giardia and bacteria are always a concern. One of the best water filters on the market is the Sawyer Squeeze because it's lightweight and has a fast flow rate.

Backpacking appalachian trail

Camping Spots & Shelters

There are many excellent campsites and shelters along this section of the Appalachian Trail. At mile 10.6 is one of my favorite camp spots called Beauty Spot. (pictured below) It's an open grassy area on top of the Unaka Mountains with breathtaking views of the Unaka Wilderness and Pisgah National Forest.

There's also the option of staying in one of the many shelters along the trail. Overmountain shelter has been a popular choice among backpackers for years, offering beautiful views of the Roaring Creek valley. However, in 2019 it was closed down due to being structurally unsound.

The fields around the shelter are still open for tent camping and allow you to enjoy the views of the valley. They're just asking hikers not to pitch their tent within 40 feet of the shelter in the event that there is a structural failure.

The Roan High Knob Shelter is probably the best shelter to stay at on this trail since the other one is closed down. It's known for being the highest shelter on the Appalachian Trail at 6,285 feet. Also, as shelters go, it's more luxurious than what you typically see on the trail, with two floors and 15 person capacity.

Check out the interactive map below for the exact locations of all the campsites and shelters.

Roan Highlands beauty spot campsite

Beauty Spot campsite

Roan Highlands Backpacking Video

Trip Itinerary

Day 1: 

  • Start at the Erwin Trailhead off of Jones Branch Rd in Erwin, TN.

  • Hike for 10.6 miles through thick forest

  • Camp at Beauty Spot with amazing views (make sure to have plenty of water, there's no water near camp. Refer to the map below to know the last water source)

Day 2: 

  • Hike for 14.8 miles in dense forest

  • Tent Camp at the Clyde Smith Shelter

Day 3: 

  • Hike 13.6 miles in some challenging terrain and eventually, you will come to the epic section of the Roan Highlands where there are grassy balds with views everywhere.

  • Tent camp at the Overmountain Shelter located in a nice valley with a great view

  • You will pass through 3 balds. (Round Bald, Jane Bald, and Grassy Ridge Bald).

Day 4:

  • Hike 8.4 miles to U.S. Route 19E to complete your hike. In this last stretch, you will enjoy even more grassy balds. In my opinion, these are the best views of the Roan Highlands.

  • You will pass through 2 balds on top of Little Hump Mountain and Hump Mountain.


 

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